36 Hours in Istanbul

By JENNIFER CONLIN

Published: February 7, 2010

FROM a skyline featuring both minarets and church spires to the call to prayer competing with lounge music in a hip cafe, Istanbul is the only major city to span two continents. While it is known for sights dating back thousands of years, it also has a fascinating, and often ignored, contemporary scene that is finally receiving international attention. As a 2010 European Capital of Culture, the city is showcasing local artists in both historic areas and new museums — yet another example of how Istanbul is among the world’s most visually stimulating cities.

Friday
5 p.m.
1) ON THE AVENUE
Take an early evening walk down Istanbul’s most famous avenue, Istiklal Caddesi, a pedestrian thoroughfare in the Beyoglu district, filled with boutiques, restaurants, patisseries and galleries. Stop at Ada Cafe & Bistro (Istiklal Caddesi 158-A, Beyoglu; 90-212-251-5544; adakitapcafe.com), a modern cafe that doubles as a book and music shop, and order a Turkish coffee. Depending on the weather, you can sit on the terrace and survey Istanbul’s diversity, everything from conservative Muslim women dressed in head scarves to teenagers wearing the latest Versace.
7 p.m.

2) SKY LOUNGE
At the top of the Misir Apartments building is 360 Istanbul (Istiklal Caddesi 163, Beyoglu; 90-212-251-1042; 360istanbul.com), a rooftop bar and restaurant with a view that matches its name. Order a martini and look out over the Bosporus, the Hagia Sophia, even the Sea of Marmara. Enjoy the view indoors, too, as this trendy, glass-and-steel bar is one of the top places to see, and be seen, by both jet-setters and Istanbul’s most glamorous denizens.
8 p.m.
3) YOGURT AND MINT
Get ready to hike steep streets (think San Francisco) as you walk in Cihangir, a neighborhood within Beyoglu known for its architecture and creative community of artists, writers, performers and media types. Book a table at the bustling Meyra Cafe and Restaurant (Akarsu Caddesi 46, Cihangir; 90-212-244-5350; meyracaferestaurant.com.tr), with a distinctive neighborhood feel. For starters try the patlican (eggplant) baked with mozzarella and tomato sauce, and the boregi — a cheese-filled pastry. For a main course, resist the urge to order a burger and opt for the filet mignon served with a tangy garlic yogurt with fresh mint. Dinner for two with wine, about 150 Turkish lira, about $102 at 1.46 lira to the dollar.
10 p.m.
4) GHETTO MUSIC
For contemporary music in a funky setting, try Ghetto (Kamer Hatun Caddesi 10, Beyoglu; 90-212-251-7501; ghettoist.com), a music lounge opened in 2007 that has become one of the most talked-about hot spots in town. Housed in a former bakery with a vaulted ceiling and frescoes, Ghetto feels almost churchlike in its dedication to new artists who play progressive, jazz and world music. Sets begin at 10 p.m. on Thursdays, 10:30 on Fridays and Saturdays, though many arrive earlier to enjoy a quiet drink.
Saturday
10 a.m.
5) ARTFUL EATING
Opened in 2005 in a converted warehouse on the Bosporus, the Istanbul Modern (Meclis-i Mebusan Caddesi, Karakoy; 90-212-334-7300; www.istanbulmodern.org) has not only two floors of contemporary artworks by local artists, but also a sculpture garden, library and restaurant. Look for the work of Mubin Orhon and Fahrelnissa Zeid, both top sellers this past March when Sotheby’s held its first major auction of contemporary Turkish art. Whatever you choose to see, don’t miss out on lunch on the stylish terrace overlooking the Bosporus, where the view rivals the art. Amazingly, the food, a mixture of Turkish and European dishes, is great, too. Order the manti, a lamb ravioli served with a garlic yogurt, then the tiramisù with coffee sauce. Lunch for two with wine, about 150 lira. Reservations strongly encouraged, especially if you want an outdoor table.
3 p.m.
6) STRAIT AND NARROW
With too little time to indulge in the six-hour ferry ride up and down the Bosporus, a trip recommended by most guidebooks, try TurYol (turyol.com; call the TurYol information bureau for information: 90-212-512-1287), a company that operates smaller, faster boats for both locals and tourists. It offers a 90-minute ride from the Eminonu ferry dock, at the foot of the Galata Bridge, Golden Horn side, up to Rumelihisari, the site of an Ottoman fortress at the narrowest part of the Bosporus, before heading back to Eminonu (9 lira a person). Tours depart every hour from noon to 7 p.m. on Saturdays. The captain tries to stay close to the shore so you can check out the charming old wooden Ottoman houses, new luxury villas, and many upscale restaurants, clubs and fancy hotels that line both sides of the strait.
4 p.m.
7) POLITICAL GALLERISTS
The Misir Apartments may look like any other beautifully restored 19th-century building in Istanbul, but it actually houses some of the city’s coolest art galleries. Visit the Galerist (Istiklal Caddesi, Misir Apt. 163/4, Beyoglu; 90-212-244-8230; galerist.com.tr ) and Galeri Nev (Istiklal Caddesi, Misir Apt. 163/5, Beyoglu; 90-212-252-1525; galerinevistanbul.com). Both showcase the work of local artists who have caught the recent attention of international dealers. Most of the exhibitions are not just provocative, but controversial, too, dealing with an array of political and social issues that mark modern-day Turkey.
7 p.m.
8) TURKISH FUSION
Mikla, in the Marmara Pera Hotel (Mesrutiyet Caddesi 167-185, Beyoglu; 90-212-293-5656; themarmarahotels.com), is known for its stunning views as well as its modern, elegant décor. Designed as a “multidimensional outdoor living space,” it has an indoor restaurant and bar, an outdoor dining area on two terraces, and a third terrace with an open-air bar and swimming pool. No matter where you end up sitting, you can easily feel part of the skyline. Be sure to call ahead for restaurant reservations. The Mediterranean-Scandinavian menu may sound odd at first — smoked mackerel mousse with curry and apple vinaigrette — but the mixture somehow works, creating a subtly spicy fish dish like no other. Dinner for two with wine, about 300 lira.
11 p.m.
9) FRENCH TWIST
Walk off dinner by heading to Fransiz Sokagi (known as French Street), where a two-year renovation project that started in 2004 pays homage to the many French who lived in Beyoglu in the 19th century. (The stones on the street were arranged by architects from Paris, and the 100-year-old coal gas street lamps come from Paris.) The lure here is the numerous outdoor cafes that are kept warm by heaters lining the streets, mostof them filling up with patrons as the night grows late. But if the din of the street becomes too much, escape — weather permitting — to the rooftop of Artiste Terasse (Cezayir Cikmazi 4, Beyoglu; 90-212-251-4425; artisteterasse.com), where yet another spectacular view of Istanbul awaits you.
Sunday
9 a.m.
10) PASTRIES AND PEOPLE
The best part of the new Four Seasons at the Bosporus (Ciragan Caddesi 28, Besiktas; 90-212-381-4000; fourseasons.com/bosphorus) is its sprawling waterfront marble terrace, with sweeping views of the Bosporus and the Asian side just across the water. It also has a private dock, where one can see which guests arrive in their own boat. Indulge in breakfast along the water’s edge, where the dramatic red-and-white theme spreads from the table umbrellas to the geraniums to the chair pillows. Breakfast buffet, 60 lira a person.
11 a.m.
11) CULTURE FACTORY
Call it the Tate Modern of Turkey. SantralIstanbul (Kazim Karabekir Caddesi 2/6, Eyup; 90-212-311-7809; www.santralistanbul.org), an arts and cultural complex in Silahtar, at the upper end of the Golden Horn, is well worth the 20-minute bus ride from Taksim Square. Opened in 2007 in a former power station and rebuilt with steel-and-glass exteriors, the museum is currently exhibiting, through March, the work of Yuksel Arslan, a Turkish artist who fled his native country nearly 50 years ago for France. The complex is surrounded by green recreational spaces and has two restaurants with bars. Order a Turkish coffee and salute yourself for exploring not just the traditional but also the contemporary side of Turkish culture.
IF YOU GO
Turkish Airlines flies from New York to Istanbul for around $700 in mid-February, according to a recent online search. Cabs (about 50 lira, $31 at 1.46 lira to the dollar, from the airport; 15 to 20 around the main part of the city) are plentiful. In Beyoglu, walking is often the best option, as is the tram (1.5 lira a ride).
Lush Hotel in Beyoglu (Siraselvifer 12; Taksim; 90-212-243-9595; lushhotel.com) has 35 rooms ranging from a classic Ottoman style to funky ’60s décor. Near shopping, cafes and clubs, it offers Old World charm with the benefits of a boutique hotel; rooms from 109 euros, or about $150, at $1.38 to the euro.
Yesil Ev (Kabasakal Cadessi 5, Sultanahmet; 90-212-517-6785; istanbulyesilev.com) has 19 rooms in a 19th-century mansion, with brass beds, rugs and velvet curtains. Doubles from 250 euros.

This article has been revised to reflect the following correction:
Correction: February 21, 2010

The 36 Hours column on Feb. 7, about Istanbul, described the fortress Rumelihisari on the Bosporus incorrectly. The fortress is Ottoman, not Byzantine. (It was built in 1452 by the Ottoman sultan Mehmed II and used a year later as a major staging ground for the conquest of Constantinople, the Byzantine capital.)